Short answer: measure your foot length in centimetres and match it to the CM column, not to the shoe size you wear in trainers. FLR road and MTB shoes use the same conversion scale, so EU 42 is 27.0cm in every model. Cycling shoes should fit closer than running shoes, with 3 to 5mm ahead of your longest toe and no heel lift.
Contents
- Measure your foot properly
- FLR size chart
- Why the CM column is the one to trust
- The FLR range and which model suits you
- Road or MTB and gravel: the sole decides
- What a correct fit feels like
- Heat, swelling and monsoon
- Frequently asked questions
Measure your foot properly
Take two minutes over this. It is more accurate than any size you already believe you are.
- Put a sheet of paper on a hard floor with one edge against a wall.
- Stand on it with your heel touching the wall, wearing the socks you ride in.
- Put your weight on that foot. The foot lengthens under load, and measuring while seated gives a reading that is too short.
- Mark the paper at the tip of your longest toe, which is not always the big toe.
- Measure from the wall edge to the mark in centimetres.
- Repeat for the other foot.
Measure in the evening. Feet are measurably larger later in the day, and larger again after riding. A shoe sized to a morning measurement can feel tight at hour three.
FLR size chart
FLR uses the same length conversion across its road, triathlon, MTB and gravel shoes, so this single table covers the range. Sizes offered vary by model.
| EU | Foot length (cm) | UK | US |
|---|---|---|---|
| 38 | 24.3 | 5 | 6 |
| 39 | 25.0 | 6 | 7 |
| 40 | 25.6 | 6.5 | 7.5 |
| 41 | 26.3 | 7 | 8 |
| 42 | 27.0 | 8 | 9 |
| 43 | 27.6 | 9 | 10 |
| 44 | 28.3 | 9.5 | 10.5 |
| 45 | 29.0 | 10.5 | 11.5 |
| 46 | 29.6 | 11 | 12 |
| 47 | 30.3 | 12 | 13 |
| 48 | 30.9 | 13 | 14 |
| 49 | 31.6 | 13.5 | 14.5 |
EU 48 and 49 appear on road and triathlon models only. MTB and gravel models run to EU 47.
Why the CM column is the one to trust
Look at the UK and US columns and you will notice they do not step evenly. Between EU 41 and 43 the UK size moves a full size each step, then between 43 and 44 it moves only half a size. That is not an error in the chart, it is what happens when three sizing systems that were never designed to align are mapped onto each other.
The CM column is a direct physical measurement, so it is the only column that means the same thing in every system. Use it.
This also explains why the size you wear in trainers is a poor guide. Running shoes are deliberately sized with more room, so riders routinely find their cycling shoe size is half a size to a full size smaller than the trainers they arrived in.
If your measurement falls between two sizes, take the larger one. Feet swell during long rides and in Indian heat, and a cycling shoe cannot be stretched the way a leather casual shoe can.
The FLR range and which model suits you
| Model | Discipline | Sizes | From |
|---|---|---|---|
| FNT-3 | Road, triathlon | EU 40 to 45 | ₹10,690 |
| FNT-5 | Road, triathlon | EU 37 to 46 | ₹14,199 |
| FNT-9 Knit | Road, triathlon | EU 40 to 46 | ₹16,799 |
| FX-3 | MTB, gravel | EU 40 to 45 | ₹9,990 |
The FNT-5 offers the widest size range of the road models, reaching down to EU 37, which matters for smaller-footed riders that most cycling shoe ranges do not serve. The FNT-9 uses a knitted upper, which breathes more freely and is worth considering if heat is your main complaint. Availability of individual sizes and colours changes, so check the product page or ask us.
The full range is in FLR, and all cycling footwear in cycling shoes.
Road or MTB and gravel: the sole decides
The size chart is the same. The sole is not, and it determines what you can bolt to it and whether you can walk.
| Road and triathlon | MTB and gravel | |
|---|---|---|
| Cleat pattern | Three-bolt | Two-bolt |
| Cleat position | Sits proud of the sole | Recessed into tread |
| Walking | Awkward, wears the cleat | Normal |
| Sole | Stiff, smooth | Stiff, with tread |
Choose by what you actually do rather than by the bike you own. Plenty of road riders are better served by an MTB or gravel shoe, because they stop at cafes, walk at the start of group rides, and never race. Our guide to pedal and cleat compatibility covers which cleats fit which pedals.
What a correct fit feels like
Length gets you the right size. These five checks tell you whether it actually fits.
- 3 to 5mm ahead of your longest toe when standing. Your toes should not touch the end, and should not have room to slide forward either.
- No heel lift. With the closure done up, lift your heel as if pedalling. The heel cup should hold it. Heel movement causes blisters and wastes power.
- The forefoot is held, not squeezed. You should feel supported across the widest part of the foot without pressure on the sides. The size chart lists length only, so if you have a broad forefoot this is the check that matters most.
- No pressure point over the top of the foot from the dial or strap. Adjust before deciding the shoe is wrong.
- Toes can move slightly. A shoe so tight you cannot wiggle your toes will cut circulation on a long ride.
Wear the socks you ride in when trying shoes on. A thick winter sock and a thin summer sock differ by enough to change the size.
Heat, swelling and monsoon
Three things that change how you should size and look after cycling shoes here.
- Feet swell more in heat, and more again over distance. On a 100km ride starting at 6am in Hyderabad summer, feet can be noticeably larger by the end. This is the strongest argument for sizing up rather than down when you fall between sizes, and for choosing a shoe with a ventilated or knitted upper.
- Ventilation matters more than it does in Europe. Perforated and knitted uppers move air across the foot and reduce the burning sensation that comes with sustained heat. A sealed, water-resistant shoe is the wrong choice for most Indian riding.
- Monsoon riding needs a drying routine. Remove the insoles after every wet ride and dry both separately, away from direct sun and never with a heat source, which hardens the sole and shrinks the upper. Stuffing the shoe with newspaper pulls moisture out overnight. Shoes dried with the insoles still in develop odour and the insole degrades.
Frequently asked questions
Should cycling shoes fit tighter than running shoes?
Yes, noticeably closer. A running shoe needs room for the foot to roll and move through the stride, which is why the usual advice is a thumb's width at the toe. A cycling shoe transfers force through a stiff sole and the foot does not flex, so movement inside the shoe is wasted energy and causes blisters. Aim for 3 to 5mm ahead of the longest toe. Most riders take a cycling shoe half to a full size smaller than their running shoes.
My left and right feet are different sizes. Which one do I size for?
Always the larger foot, and this is more common than people expect. A shoe that is too small cannot be made bigger, while a slightly loose shoe on the smaller foot can be corrected with a thicker sock, a supportive insole, or by taking up the closure a little further. Never buy for the smaller foot hoping the larger one settles in. Cycling shoe uppers, especially synthetic and knitted ones, do not stretch meaningfully.
Why do my feet go numb or burn on long rides?
Usually a shoe that is too small once the foot has swollen, or a cleat positioned too far forward. Both compress the nerves that run between the metatarsals, producing numbness or a hot burning sensation across the ball of the foot. Loosening the closure mid-ride is a good diagnostic: if relief is immediate, size or swelling is the cause. Moving the cleat rearward by a few millimetres reduces pressure on the forefoot and often resolves it entirely.
Can I wear road cycling shoes on an indoor trainer?
Yes, the shoe and cleat work exactly as they do outdoors. The one thing to manage is sweat, which is far heavier indoors without airflow and is corrosive to cleat bolts and closure mechanisms. Wipe the shoes down and dry them properly after indoor sessions, and use a fan. Riders who train indoors a great deal often keep an older pair for the trainer, since sweat shortens the life of the closure system more than riding does.
How do I clean and dry cycling shoes after a wet ride?
Rinse off mud and road grit with clean water while it is still wet, since dried grit is abrasive and works into the closure mechanism. Remove the insoles and dry them separately. Air dry both away from direct sunlight, and never on a radiator, in a car, or with a hairdryer, as heat hardens the sole and can shrink the upper. Newspaper stuffed inside draws moisture out overnight. Wipe the cleat bolts dry to stop them seizing.
Try before you decide
Length narrows it down; forefoot width and heel shape decide it. Give your foot measurement in centimetres to ask TBA Guide and we will tell you which size and model to look at, or come to our Kondapur store and try them on with the socks you ride in.
