Short answer: disc brake pads are shaped to fit a specific caliper, so you need the caliper model, not the bike brand. Rim brake pads are chosen by brake type and by rim material, and fitting alloy rim pads to a carbon rim will destroy the rim. Pad compound, organic or sintered, is a separate choice from fit.
Contents
- Start with your brake type
- Disc pads: shape is caliper specific
- Organic, sintered or semi-metallic
- Resin pad only rotors
- Rim brake pads and shoes
- Carbon rims need carbon-specific pads
- When to replace
- What monsoon and long descents do to pads
- Frequently asked questions
Start with your brake type
Everything follows from one question: does the brake squeeze a rotor at the hub, or the rim itself?
| Brake type | What you need | Chosen by |
|---|---|---|
| Hydraulic or mechanical disc | Disc brake pads | Caliper model |
| Road caliper (dual pivot) | Brake shoes or cartridge inserts | Brake brand and rim material |
| V-brake, cantilever | V-brake pads, threaded post | Post type and rim material |
Road caliper pads and V-brake pads are not interchangeable even though both press on a rim. Road caliper shoes use a smooth post held by a nut; V-brake pads use a threaded post with a stack of spacers and washers that sets the angle.
Disc pads: shape is caliper specific
There is no universal disc pad. Each caliper family takes a pad of a particular outline, thickness and backing plate shape, with its own retention method. Getting this right means identifying the caliper, which is often not the same brand as the bike.
The common families you will meet in India:
| Caliper family | Found on | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Shimano road (flat mount) | 105, Ultegra, Dura-Ace, GRX | L-series pads, smaller than MTB |
| Shimano MTB | Deore, SLX, XT, XTR | Larger pad, several sub-shapes |
| SRAM road and AXS | Rival, Force, Red | Shares shape with several SRAM MTB calipers |
| SRAM Code | Gravity MTB, some e-bikes | Larger four-piston pad |
| Avid BB5 | Entry mechanical disc | Different from BB7 |
| Avid BB7, Promax | Entry and mid mechanical disc | Widely shared shape |
| Tektro, Zoom | Entry hybrids and MTBs | Common on bikes sold in India |
| Magura, Hope | Aftermarket and premium builds | Own shapes |
Third-party makers list which caliper each pad replaces, which is usually easier than decoding the original part number. Our range includes pads for Shimano, SRAM and Hope, Avid BB5 and Promax, Avid Code, Zoom and SRAM eTap AXS. The full range is in brake pads.
The reliable way to identify a caliper: look at the caliper body itself for a moulded or printed model name, not at the bike's frame decals. A Merida or Polygon bike very often has Shimano or Tektro brakes, and the pad must match the brake.
Organic, sintered or semi-metallic
Once the shape is right, compound is a genuine choice, and it changes how the brake behaves.
| Organic (resin) | Sintered (metallic) | Semi-metallic | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Initial bite | Strong | Weaker when cold | Moderate |
| Noise | Quieter | Noisier | Moderate |
| Wet and grit | Wears fast | Holds up well | Good |
| Sustained heat | Fades sooner | Handles heat well | Good |
| Pad life | Shorter | Longer | Between |
| Rotor wear | Gentle | Higher | Moderate |
For most road and gravel riding in India, organic pads are the sensible default: quiet, strong feel, and they suit the rotors most road bikes ship with. Sintered becomes the better choice if you ride heavily through monsoon, ride loaded, descend long passes, or are simply getting through organic pads too quickly.
Resin pad only rotors
This one catches people, and it is the reason to check before upgrading to sintered pads.
Some rotors, particularly lower and mid-range Shimano ones, are marked RESIN PAD ONLY on the rotor itself. Their braking surface is not designed for the higher temperatures and greater abrasion that sintered pads produce. Fitting sintered pads to a resin-only rotor wears the rotor quickly and can distort it.
Before buying sintered pads, read the text printed around the rotor's braking track. If it says resin pad only, either stay with organic pads or change the rotor at the same time. Rotors are in brake rotors.
Rim brake pads and shoes
Two things to get right: how the pad mounts, and what the rim is made of.
Mounting
- Cartridge shoes have a metal holder that stays on the brake, with a replaceable rubber insert that slides out. Cheaper to run, because you replace only the rubber. Standard on mid and high-end road calipers.
- One-piece pads replace the whole assembly. Common on entry-level brakes.
- Threaded post (V-brake) pads use a stack of curved and flat washers that set the pad angle against the rim. Keep the washers in order when you remove them.
- Smooth post (road caliper) pads are held by a single nut and self-align.
Shimano and SRAM road cartridge inserts are broadly interchangeable, since the holder shape is shared. Campagnolo uses its own and should be kept to Campagnolo-compatible inserts.
Direction matters
Cartridge shoes are handed and directional. They are usually marked left and right, and marked with an arrow or the word FORWARD. Fitting one backwards allows the insert to slide out of the holder under braking, which is exactly as bad as it sounds. Check the marking every time.
Carbon rims need carbon-specific pads
This is the most expensive mistake on this page.
Standard black rubber pads are formulated for aluminium braking surfaces. They run hot and are abrasive enough to damage a carbon rim's resin surface. Fitting them to carbon rims destroys the braking track, and no rim warranty covers it.
Carbon-specific pads are usually a different colour, often cork or a light compound, and are formulated to generate less heat against a resin surface. They are not optional.
The reverse is also true and less well known. Carbon-specific pads on an aluminium rim brake poorly and wear out fast. They are not a safe universal choice.
Two more rules for carbon rim braking:
- Never mix. A pad that has been used on aluminium picks up embedded alloy particles, which will then score a carbon rim. Keep pads dedicated to one rim material.
- Feather on long descents. Dragging the brake on a carbon rim builds heat in the resin. Brake firmly and release, rather than holding constant pressure.
We stock cartridge inserts for both, in carbon rim and alloy rim versions. Check which your wheels are before ordering.
When to replace
| Pad type | Replace when |
|---|---|
| Disc | Friction material is down to about 0.5mm above the backing plate |
| Rim | The moulded wear grooves have disappeared |
Other signs that mean replace now regardless of thickness:
- The lever pulls closer to the bar than it used to, on a system that is not losing fluid.
- A metallic scraping noise, which usually means the backing plate is already contacting the rotor. Stop riding and replace both pads and, very often, the rotor.
- Any oil or degreaser has reached the pad surface.
- Glazing, a shiny glass-like surface, which reduces friction sharply.
Always replace pads as a pair per caliper, and ideally front and rear together so braking stays balanced.
What monsoon and long descents do to pads
Pad life figures quoted internationally do not transfer here, for two reasons.
Monsoon grit is a grinding paste. Road water carries fine sand and silt onto the rotor or rim, and every brake application drags that across the pad. Riders regularly report a set of organic disc pads lasting a few hundred kilometres through heavy monsoon riding when the same pads would have lasted thousands in the dry. This is not a defect. If you ride through the wet season, check pads every two to three weeks rather than seasonally, and consider sintered pads for those months.
Long descents build heat that organic pads do not like. Riding the ghats, Nandi Hills, or any sustained descent with a loaded bike puts far more sustained heat into a brake than flat city riding. Organic pads fade as they get hot, which feels like the brake gradually losing power partway down. Sintered pads handle that far better.
Rinse the rotor or rim with clean water after wet rides, and let the bike dry before storing it. Grit left on the braking surface keeps working after you stop.
Frequently asked questions
Why do my disc brakes squeal, and will new pads fix it?
Usually contamination, and new pads alone often will not fix it. The most common causes are chain lube overspray, degreaser, or fingers on the braking surface, all of which soak into the pad material. Clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag first, since that is free. If the noise persists, the pads are contaminated and need replacing. New pads fitted to a still-contaminated rotor will squeal again within a few rides, so always clean the rotor at the same time.
Can contaminated brake pads be cleaned and reused?
Sometimes for a light contamination, rarely for a soaking. Lightly sanding the surface on clean fine abrasive paper can remove a surface layer of glazing or light oil, and some riders have success briefly heating the pad to burn off residue. Neither works once oil has soaked deep into the material, because the pad is porous. Given that pads cost a fraction of what a crash costs, replacement is the sensible call whenever braking power is noticeably reduced.
How do I bed in new brake pads?
Find a quiet, flat stretch of road. Accelerate to around 20 kmph and brake firmly down to walking pace without stopping completely, then repeat around twenty times, increasing the force progressively. The pad and rotor surfaces are transferring material to each other, which is what creates full braking power. Do not come to a complete stop while the rotor is hot, since that can leave a deposit and cause a pulsing feel. Expect noticeably weaker braking until this is done.
Do I need a new rotor when I fit new pads?
Not usually, but check two things. Rotors have a minimum thickness stamped on them, commonly 1.5mm, and a rotor below that must be replaced. Also run a finger across the braking track: deep grooves or a pronounced ridge at the outer edge mean the rotor will not bed properly with new pads. A rotor that has been run down to the backing plate of a worn pad is almost always finished. Otherwise, clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol and fit the new pads.
How do I identify my caliper if it has no visible model name?
Take the existing pad out and photograph it next to a ruler, then compare the outline against pad shape charts. The backing plate outline, the position of the retaining pin hole and the overall dimensions identify the family reliably. Note the number of pistons visible in the caliper too, since two-piston and four-piston versions of the same brand take different pads. If in doubt, send us the photo and we will identify it.
Send us a photo
Pad identification from a photograph is quick and we do it constantly. Send a picture of your caliper, or of the old pad on a ruler, on WhatsApp and we will tell you exactly which pads fit. If your rotors are also worn, our guide to disc rotor standards covers sizes, mounting and adapters.
