Saddles

(128 products)

Road, mountain, triathlon and comfort saddles in a range of widths and shapes. The saddle is the single component most responsible for whether a long ride is enjoyable, and getting it right is about width and shape rather than price.

Read more: measuring sit bone width, padding, cutouts and budget

Width is the decision that matters

A saddle should support your sit bones, which means its width has to match your sit bone spacing. That has nothing to do with your height or weight.

Measure it at home: sit on a piece of corrugated cardboard placed on a hard chair, lean slightly forward to mimic a riding position, stand up and measure between the centres of the two dents. Add roughly 20mm to 30mm for a road position, less for an aggressive one. Most riders land between 130mm and 155mm.

More padding is not more comfort

This is the mistake we see most often. A heavily padded saddle compresses under your sit bones and the displaced foam pushes up into the soft tissue between them, which is exactly where you do not want pressure. That is why a plush saddle can feel fine for twenty minutes and awful after an hour. A firmer saddle of the right width will be more comfortable over distance, every time.

Cutouts and relief channels

A central cutout removes pressure from the perineal area, where blood vessels and nerves run. If you get numbness or tingling on longer rides, this is usually the answer. Designs range from a shallow relief channel to a large central opening, and short-nose saddles suit riders who ride low and forward.

How much to spend

Entry and mid-range saddles with steel or alloy rails come in well-judged shapes that suit most riders. At the top end you are paying for carbon rails and lighter shells, which saves grams but does not improve fit. Buy the right width first and worry about weight afterwards.

If it still is not right

Give a correctly sized saddle three or four rides before judging it. But pain, numbness or saddle sores are not something to push through: they point to the wrong width, the wrong shape, or a saddle height and tilt problem. A professional bike fit will sort it properly.

Not sure which width or shape suits you? Ask TBA Guide, our chat assistant.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know what width saddle I need?

Saddle width should match your sit bone spacing, not your body size. Measure by sitting on a piece of corrugated cardboard on a hard surface, leaning slightly forward, then measure between the centres of the two dents. Add roughly 20mm to 30mm for a road position. Most riders need 130mm to 155mm.

Does more padding mean a more comfortable saddle?

No, and this is the most common mistake. Thick padding compresses under your sit bones and pushes up into the soft tissue between them, which causes numbness on rides over an hour. A firmer saddle of the correct width supports the sit bones properly and is far more comfortable over distance.

What is a cutout or relief channel saddle for?

A central cutout or channel removes pressure from the perineal area, where blood vessels and nerves run. If you get numbness or tingling on longer rides, this is usually the fix. Designs range from a shallow groove to a large central opening, and a cutout is worth choosing if you regularly ride for more than an hour at a time.

How much should I spend on a bicycle saddle?

Entry and mid-range saddles with steel or alloy rails include well-shaped options that suit most riders. Premium saddles add carbon rails and lighter shells, which saves weight but does not make a saddle fit better. Fit is decided by width and shape, not price, so measure your sit bones first and spend more only once the shape is right.

How long does it take to get used to a new saddle?

Give a correctly sized saddle three to four rides before judging it, as some initial unfamiliarity is normal. But genuine pain, numbness or saddle sores are not something to ride through. Those signal the wrong width, wrong shape or a saddle height or tilt problem, and a bike fit will resolve it.